Ask the Experts, April/May 2024

Ask the Experts, April/May 2024

Marissa Ames and Carla Tilghman answer your poultry questions about dog training, molting, duck behavior and more.

Dog Training

We’re owners of a 1-year-old female Pyrenees. Yesterday, she allowed our neighbor’s German Shepherd to kill our favorite hen. When I went to the barn to investigate, my Pyrenees was lying near the neighbor’s dog, who was also lying down, just panting like nothing was wrong while my neighbor’s dog chewed on my partially alive hen! I was so upset and disappointed that she allowed this. What can we do, where did we go wrong? My heart is broken.
Gertrude


Hi Gertrude,
I’m so sorry for your loss.
Here’s a great article by Brenda Negri, who raises LGDs and has written several books:
Protect Your Poultry with Livestock Guardian Dogs.

We emphasize that livestock guardian dogs must be trained to do their job. There are lots of different methods; how have you been training your dog?
If a dog eats a bird once, you shouldn’t depend on that dog for flock protection. And while you saw the German Shepherd eating the bird, you may not be able to tell if one or both dogs attacked the bird. Because you weren’t able to intervene, the dog learned that attacking the bird was okay. You can’t let your birds free-range if the dog is loose and you aren’t around. You may even need to strengthen the fencing around the flock’s coop and run.
Brenda Negri, in her article, talks about buying them as puppies and training them around the species. She also talks about training daily, using older hens, and staying in the immediate area.
I know this isn’t cheerful news, but you can still protect your flock and work to train a younger dog in the future.
Marissa

Loving Ducks

I have three female Indian Runner ducks. Two have just started laying eggs. We have no drakes. I‘ve noticed an uptick in their amorous behavior with one another — in the kiddie pool (and even on dry land), they engage in mating behavior with one another, plucking at each other’s head and neck feathers, “surfing” on each other, and so on.
At first, it was just humorous, but they really like plucking at that joint area of the wing, and while there hasn’t been any blood, they get pretty ruffled up! Is there anything to be concerned about? Have you encountered this where the ducks have injured one another? I know drakes can do some damage, but I was hoping the ladies would take it a little easier. Is this seasonal or should I expect it year-round? I thought taking the pool away would cool them off but obviously, it didn’t.
Meg Sauve

Meg,
This is pretty typical seasonal behavior for many birds, especially those that only lay during part of the year. In December, your ducks may be sweet and cuddly, but aggressive and temperamental in April. The simplest answer is to separate them during the laying season. They can still sleep together in a coop, but during the day, you’ll need to fence them off from each other. Try different pairings to see if two of them can get along, but these three together pushes their buttons. Movable netting should be sufficient and is a flexible solution for you to try. Make sure the mesh openings are small enough that they can’t get a wing caught in the net.
Good luck with your amorous girls.
Carla

Water Testing

I have nine chickens, two emus, and three (soon to be six) Indian Runner ducks. The emus live in a separate, fenced section of the large pasture. In the other portion, our chickens free-range, and the ducks are sectioned off in their own space because of the pond in this pasture, though we haven’t let them use it. It‘s small, man-made, and is fed from what we call the ”upper pond” (where the emus are) and a creek.

The previous owners dug the ponds for water mitigation, and they feed into a creek on the other side of the road through a pipe under the road. The creek runs through an adjacent pasture (not ours) and has cows that can drink from and cross it. I’ve seen geese, a heron, and wild ducks in both ponds, and both ponds have an aerator to combat algae (although they do both get blooms sometimes).

My concern was whether my ducks would be okay on the pond, as I have no idea what the quality of the water was, nor what I should be looking for in terms of quality. I know frogs live in the ponds, I‘ve seen tadpoles, and I‘m not sure what else. Wild ducks land on it and seem fine, but obviously, they‘re wild so who knows their health? I‘d love to let our ducks have access to it (once we block off some rocks, and the drainage pipe entrance, and ensure they have an easy in-out route) but I‘m afraid they‘ll get sick. I can send pictures or videos if that’s helpful.

I’ve reached out to several “experts” here in Virginia and only one replied. Unfortunately, his input was not particularly helpful, as he didn‘t test the water. Is there any guidance you can provide?
Gloria

Gloria,
Your setup sounds pretty amazing. About ducks: both wild and domestic have a high resistance to diseases. Wild ducks tend to be the broadest carriers of avian influenza, but the ducks rarely show symptoms or suffer from it. They also tend to escape the other diseases that backyard chickens catch. Certain diseases can be a problem, though, such as botulism and blue-green algae (which is a type of toxic bacteria), so it wouldn’t hurt to take the water in for testing at an agricultural extension office, especially when the weather warms up and those bacteria thrive. Also test for heavy metals, such as lead, because that can sicken ducks and indicate a much bigger problem on your property. Watch for symptoms that might indicate a problem, such as foamy eyes, lethargy, difficulty walking, or unexplained deaths. But ducks tend to be in more danger of mechanical injury, such as bumblefoot, than disease from problems with the water.
Marissa

Storing Waterglassed Eggs

Can you store the jar of waterglassed eggs in a closet with other prepared canned foods? Or does the jar need to be refrigerated all the time?
Priscilla

Hi Priscilla,
If the eggs are successfully waterglassed (no smell, clear liquid, well-sealed), you don’t have to refrigerate the container with the eggs. Refrigerate any eggs that you remove from the waterglassing jar if you don’t eat them right away.
Carla

Turkeys and Chicken Doors

Will Royal Palms fit through an automatic chicken door? We have about 1/3 acre securely fenced for our 30+ chickens and pair of peafowl.
Diane Wyatt


Hi Diane,
Most chicken doors will be too small for an adult turkey. The doors are designed not only to be automatic, but also to be small enough that dogs, coyotes, or other larger predators can’t fit through them if forced.
Here’s an article on building your own automated door that you could adapt for turkeys.

This article may help:
Automated Chicken Coop Doors
Carla

Poultry Feed

Why don’t you just say what the best chicken feed is for your readers?
Sandra Bary


Sandra,
Thanks for your question about chicken feed. Our job is to provide readers with information and then let them make decisions based on their own flock needs. We don’t recommend a single brand of chicken feed because flocks and readers have different needs.

What are your preferences in chicken feed? Do you want organic-certified only? Do you mind if the feed contains corn? Is price a concern for you? Is your flock mostly layers? Or meat birds? The answers to all these questions will help you home in on a good feed for your birds right now. There’s no single perfect brand or feed. Just what works for you and your flock right now.

Some feeds that have the pellet option are: Kalmbach, Nutrena, Fresh Pecks, Dr. Pol, Pen Pals, Field & Farm, Egglands Best, Purina Layena, Bluebonnet Feeds, Producer’s Pride, Modesto Milling, Hudson Feeds, Kruse’s Perfection. See what’s available at your local feed store, and what matches your price range.
Carla

What are Rhea?

I’m interested in purchasing a few rhea. Can you send me information on them?
Glen


Hi Glen,
Rheas are a great, large bird if you want to raise exotics. One pair needs 1/3 of an acre for grazing. Females begin laying eggs at about 2 years of age and can produce 30 to 90 eggs per year. Their meat is classed as a “red meat” because the pH is similar to beef, but is less fatty and very low cholesterol at 7.9 milligrams per 100 grams. Their feathers are prized in the fashion industry, and rhea leather is supple and appropriate for garments, purses, and wallets.Here’s an article by Kenny Coogan that will answer more of your questions.
Open A Rhea Farm to Diversify

Carla

Molting

I’m very concerned about my chickens as they haven’t been laying any eggs for about 5 months and they’ve been constantly molting.
Jill Sinay


Hi Jill,
Look at Jen Pintino’s article “Chickens Molting in Spring” (Published in the April/May issue of Backyard Poultry.)

Chickens can either be fast molters or slow molters, depending on the breed, the environment, and their age.

Slow molts of several months are normal. Pure heritage breeds are more prone to this type of molt. Hens also stimulate other hens to molt at the same time, so your whole flock may end up molting together. A slow molt is easier on your birds’ health because it doesn’t stress them as much. But it means that you won’t be getting as many, or any eggs for a longer period.

Fast, hard molts mean that your birds will lose lots of their feathers fast, which is hard on them if the weather is really cold, and it takes a ton of their energy to grow those feathers back fast. They might start laying again faster, but they’re also more prone to infectious bacteria and viruses.

When your hens molt, feed them extra protein such as mealworms. Do not (please!) give them extra corn or other carbs because it doesn’t support their metabolism appropriately and can cause other health issues such as fatty liver. Make sure they have plenty of clean water, and clean, dry bedding. Let me know how your birds are doing.
Carla

One thought on “Ask the Experts, April/May 2024”
  1. We want to raise meat chickens as clean as affordably possible. We have no idea what the major feed companies use for their ingredients and purchasing by the bag is way more expensive than purchasing bulk from the farm and grinding it ourselves. We are looking for a feed recipe that uses non-gmo grains with high enough protein for raising broilers. We have access to non-gmo corn, wheat and sorghum, along with minerals and probiotics, will this work for cornish rock chicks?

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