Ask the Expert August/September 2020

Ask the Expert August/September 2020

Reading Time: 21 minutes

Crooked Beak 

This chick was born 3/17/20. Out of 14, she is only one with a crooked beak. We only noticed it on 4/5/20. I’ve neither ever seen this before nor dealt with it. Please, any help will be much appreciated. Thanks so very much. 

Cindy Hipke, Nevada 

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Hi Cindy, 

Chicks with scissor-beak often hatch out normal then, due to injury or a genetic condition, the top and bottom grow separate ways until the chicken cannot eat normally. Though you can’t correct this, you can manage it by putting a cinderblock in the run for her to trim it herself, and you can do some gentle trimming to help her eat. Many chicken owners have found that poultry nipples are easier for scissor-beak chickens to drink from than an open fount. Also, you may need to augment her environment or feed so it’s easier for her to pick up the feed she needs, meaning you may need to keep her in a smaller flock so there’s less competition or you may find that pellets are difficult for her to eat but crumble is okay. 

Here is a story that talks about beak trimming: backyardpoultry.iamcountryside.com/feed-health/how-to-trim-chicken-beaks-claws-and-spurs/ 

In the end, you will make the decision that every other owner of scissor-beaked chickens has had to make: is the maintenance worth it to you, to prolong her life, or is her disability bad enough that you believe her quality of life just isn’t good? That’s a completely individual and personal decision that you alone can make for her. 

Also: keep in mind that, if this is a genetic condition, there is a very good chance she could pass it to her babies if you allow her to breed. 

Good luck with her! 

Marissa  

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Sadly, Miss Scissor Beak passed on three days old. But she sure enjoyed riding around in my hand and got to meet the BIG girls. Thanks for your input. Love the magazine. 

Cindy Hipke 

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Red Yolk 

This morning one of my girls passed a very bloody yolk with no egg white or shell. It was passed at some point outside. The entire yolk was red. I’m very concerned. What could cause this? I also don’t know which hen passed this. What can I do? 

Danielle 

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Hi Danielle, 

That’s a disturbing find! My first thought is that your hen has salpingitis, which is inflammation of the oviduct most commonly caused by bacteria. Have you noticed any other symptoms in any of your hens, such as leaky vents or distended abdomens? Injectable antibiotics can still be purchased over the counter in almost all states, though most aren’t labeled for poultry, so they would require that you contact a veterinarian for dosage information.  

Another possibility is that she was slightly injured, which caused ruptured capillaries within the oviduct, and for the yolk to pass before the egg completed formation. Either way, I would watch your hens for any other symptoms or “off” behavior so you can mitigate if your hen needs medication. 

Good luck! 

Marissa  

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Fire Ant Control 

Is there a control for fire ants that is not harmful to the hens? Thank you for any suggestions you have. 

Judie Chapman 

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Hi Judie, 

We received your question regarding fire ant control. The good news is that ants are arthropods, which is exactly what diatomaceous earth controls. You can sprinkle DE directly on the anthills and, when the ants crawl through it, the DE pokes microscopic holes in the exoskeletons so the ants dehydrate and die. Two things to keep in mind, though, when working with DE: First, if it gets wet (rain, watering, etc.) you will need to reapply it. Also, DE is dangerous for animals and humans if it gets into the eyes or lungs, so apply it during a time that isn’t windy, and wear a mask if there’s a chance it could fly up in your face. 

Another option would be to pour boiling water into the anthill. This would really only affect the top layer, though, so I presume the diatomaceous earth would be more effective. 

Good luck! 

Marissa  

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Thank you very much for answering the fire ant question. I look forward to every edition of Backyard Poultry. It usually answers questions that I didn’t know I had! 

 Judie Chapman 

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Water Glassing 

I have been water glassing eggs since August and LOVE the process. Can you remove eggs from the water glass liquid then refrigerate short-term to be used as needed, for example, one dozen to be used within the week? Can’t find any answers to let me know if they can go into the fridge. Enjoy your emails tremendously and have learned a lot. We have 18 acres in South Carolina and love the country/farm life! 

Donna Williams   

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Fresh eggs preserved in hydrated lime is an excellent method for storing eggs. It is important to consume the eggs which were added to the lime solution first. For easy access, remove a dozen, or as much as you’ll consume within a week, at a time and store in the refrigerator. It is important to wash the eggs very well to remove the hydrated lime prior to consuming them.  

Ann Accetta-Scott, A Farm Girl in The Making 

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Hurt Chick 

I received 26 chicks from Cackle Hatchery a few days ago. Today, my four-day-old Welsummer got stepped on accidentally. When we moved her back into the brooder she was flopping around and only using one leg. We moved her into a box and she is in the bathroom with a heat lamp and access to food and water. She is mainly sleeping though did poop. We don’t want to further injure her by making her eat or drink, but she hasn’t done either yet. Should we cull her or can she make it? What should I do? Please help.   

Leah      

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Hi Leah, 

The decision whether or not to cull a chicken is very difficult and personal. But the fact that she is mostly sleeping, and not eating or drinking, isn’t a good sign. You could try adding some electrolytes to her water, and dipping her beak, to see if she shows any initiative to drink, and that may help you decide whether or not to keep her alive longer or let her go. 

Good luck! 

Marissa  

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Thank you so much! I dipped her beak in the water, and it really energized her! Today, I introduced her back in the brooder with the other chicks, and pretty soon she was acting like nothing ever happened. She survived, and is a happy week-old Welsummer. I wanted to say that I love Backyard Poultry, and look forward to reading it so much. Thank you again for your help.   

Leah      

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Hi Leah, 

That’s fantastic! I love hearing success stories! I hope she lives to a happy, healthy old age. 

Marissa  

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Pigeon Meat 

What pigeon breeds are suitable for their meat? Thank you. 

 Nizar 

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Hi Nizar, 

The types of pigeons most commonly raised for meat are the utility breeds, which include White Kings, Red Carneau, French Mondain, Giant Homers, Utility Kings, Texas Pioneers, and Runts. People who raise for meat tend to butcher at the “squab” stage, which can be 24oz for the largest utility breeds.  

Marissa  

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Rosie the Goose 

We’ve had Rosie for about five years, and when she was re-homed to us, she had a large abdomen. I was unable to feel anything inside, so we assumed she had a tumor and would die fairly soon. She is still hanging on, does not seem to be uncomfortable, eats well, and is very friendly. Do you have any idea what this could be?  

Trish Arny 

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Hi Trish, 

If she’s had that large abdomen for five years, and isn’t uncomfortable, I wouldn’t worry. There are several reasons a goose can have that enlarged abdomen. She could be a production breed or a cross of Chinese with a production breed such as Toulouse. Or she could be overweight. Some other reasons include water belly and tumors, both of which would cause her to decline within the five years that you’ve had her. 

Here is some information from Metzer Farms, one of the leading hatcheries of waterfowl, that discusses obesity and if it’s something you should worry about: metzerfarms.com/Articles/DucksAndGeeseOverweight.pdf 

I hope this helps! 

Marissa  

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Wow, Thank you! I never would have thought she could be overweight. She does love to nibble on bread crumbs. She is staying on the lawn right now to heal her bottom so I will cut her corn back and see if that helps.  

I appreciate your amazingly fast response! 

Trish and Rosie 

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Dominique or Olive Egger? 

I am in quite the dilemma …. We bought these as Dominiques (pullets); however, we’re now being told they’re Olive Eggers. I named them Sweet Pea and Olive Oyl since they’re supposed to lay olive-colored eggs. Hopefully, you can identify them. I snapped this pic at just the right time. Thanks so much for your help.  

Cynthia Hipke, Nevada 

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Hi Cindy, 

Though there are white Dominiques, they are rarer than the barred ones and they have yellow legs. Regarding whether they are Olive Eggers, that’s tricky, because OEs aren’t a breed but a hybrid between two other breeds. Those other breeds can be a dark-layer like Marans (of any coloration), Welsummers, Barnevelders, etc. with a blue-layer such as Araucana, Ameraucana, Legbar, or an Easter Egger that has proven to lay the right color of egg. The feathering depends highly on the parents used. Also, if you acquired them from a breeder that didn’t sell you F1s, but a generation afterward, there is a very good chance that they wouldn’t even lay olive eggs. (This is more an issue of breeder/seller integrity than anything else.) Since your pullets don’t have the fluffy cheeks of Araucana, Ameraucana, or even Easter Egger, it’s tough to look at them and see what the parentage might be. I guess you’ll have to wait and see what they lay. 

I wish I could give you more help! 

Thanks, 

Marissa  

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Thanks so much for your help. The mystery will be solved by the egg. I will be anxiously waiting. We always enjoy the magazine so much, very informative. Stay safe out there. 

Cindy 

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Feeding Protocol 

Good morning. I’ve recently started raising chickens again and have the Cornish Rock breed for meat. I’ve never had this breed before. They’re about five weeks old and I recently lost a couple. I did some research and realized you’re only supposed to let them eat 12 hours/day. Is it safe to start that now or continue with feed always available? Thanks for your help. 

Deb Elliott 

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Hi Deb, 

If your feeding protocol is causing issues now, definitely change your strategy now. Cornish cross will eat and eat, and that extra weight can indeed cause early mortality, as you have experienced. Some people even feed their Cornish cross twice a day, taking the food away between meals, but that would be your own decision based on how they grow and react to this feeding strategy. When I raised Cornish cross, my protocol involved feeding in the morning, then watching how much they ate, and they almost always had a clean feeder by sunset. 

Good luck with your meat project! 

Marissa  

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Thank you, Marissa, for your quick reply. I don’t want to lose anymore, so think I’m going to take feeders out at night. 

Deb 

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Cornish Crosses 

Hello,  

My family just got 12 Cornish crosses and one of them won’t get up and the other one is limping. Is it just because they are getting overweight to fast that they can’t stand, or is there another problem with them? 

Thanks. 

Józef Jelski, Pennsylvania 

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Hi Józef  

How old are your Cornish crosses? 

Cornish cross chickens break many chicken rules, including their inability to perch, their extremely fast rate of gain, and the amount of meat they put on in relation to leg strength. Growing too fast is a problem with these birds, as is ascites (fluid buildup in the abdomen). They can get so heavy that tendons give out and legs break. Baby chicks can normally walk and perch just like other chickens, but by two to three weeks they stop perching, and six weeks is often when the health problems start. Keeping a Cornish cross alive past 10 to 12 weeks is an exercise in diet and overall dedication. 

I hope this helps! 

Marissa  

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They are six and a half weeks old. Thanks for the information. 

Józef    

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Incubators 

Hello, I am a novice peafowl breeder. I appreciate your website — I found the information useful. Thank you. Could you recommend an incubator that a novice could be successful with? Again, thank you. 

Carol Crockett 

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Hi Carol, 

Great question! There are many incubators on the market. Purchasing one with an automatic egg turner and thermometers/hygrometers pushes up the price point but those serve as great fail-safes for novices. We recommend anything Brinsea makes, and the Maxi II Advance offers all that. It fits 14 duck eggs, so 10 peafowl eggs should fit in just fine. 

Good luck with your breeding program! 

Marissa  

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Chicken Combs for Aging 

Hi, I’m just wondering if you can tell a chicken’s age by its comb. I have got one that I was told was 12 months old. It’s a smaller comb than my older ISA Browns. She is limping not sure what is wrong with her leg/foot. She is a rescue chicken.  Thanks. 

Jenny Ballan 

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Hi Jenny, 

Unfortunately, the comb isn’t an accurate indicator of age. If you’re raising all one breed, it can give you a general idea, such as a pullet that is barely feathered out but has not yet developed a comb. But there are so many different combs, among different breeds, and even chickens of the same breed can have varying comb sizes. 

Regarding her limp, have you inspected her foot to see if there is a round scab at the bottom (indicative of bumblefoot), raised scales (indicative of scaly leg mites), swelling at the feet (indicative of gout), or swelling and tenderness at the thigh (indicative of injuries)? Here is a great story that can help you diagnose foot issues: 

backyardpoultry.iamcountryside.com/feed-health/a-guide-to-recognizing-and-treating-chicken-foot-problems/ 

Good luck! 

Marissa   

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Thank you so much for the info! I had checked for the bumblefoot problem, there didn’t seem to be any swelling or sores anywhere anyway she seems fine now, still limping a little but weight-bearing and otherwise seems healthy enough.  

I’m just wondering if you can tell me what these black chickens are crossed with. The rooster was a Wyandotte. I got the eggs from my mum December of last year and four hatched with all different coloring. Mum has never had any black chooks so don’t know what the mother hen was. Would it be Araucana? She said there were a couple of blue eggs in the mix of eggs she gave me. I had a broody hen at the time.  

Jenny Ballan 

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Hi Jenny, 

That’s a tough one. Black is the most dominant of colors, which means if the mother or father has the black gene, it will almost always overrule and the babies will be black. Your pullets show a very standard body type: straight comb, clean legs, and no fluffy cheeks that would indicate a high percentage of Araucana or Ameraucana heritage. They could have so many different parentages, just based on what the photo shows. I wish I could be of more help! 

Marissa 

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Sick Chicken 

I have an issue with one of my chickens. She’s almost three years old. I believe she has a pasty butt. Her tail feathers are hanging down. When she walks, she walks really slowly. I’m not sure if she has poop stuck in her vent. I soaked her bottom in warm water with Epsom salt. Some poop that was stuck on her bottom feathers were soaked off. She seems sleepy and slightly shakes her head. She’s puffed up like she’s cold. I put her in a cage by herself and she’s been in my house by the fireplace. I put probiotics and electrolytes in her water, and crumble feed mixed with calcium. 
Not sure what else to do. 

Jeannie Guerrero 

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Hi Jeannie, 

Other than droppings sticking to an especially fluffy butt, “pasty butt” in a mature hen usually indicates a problem. What color are the droppings? 

Here are some responses from Ron Kean, our poultry expert with the University of Wisconsin, to others who asked questions about that odd posture and droopy tail: 

“Some birds can have ascites, or ‘water belly.’ This is a condition where the chickens have fluid buildup in their abdomen. This is often caused by a respiratory or circulatory problem, which causes an increase in blood pressure. The fluid is leaked from capillaries because of this high pressure. 

“Having their tails down can have different reasons: are they just down because they are depressed, or could this be related to an egg problem? If they are calcium deficient, they might not be able to expel an egg. Another possibility would be that they have been laying internally, and the mass of egg yolks is weighing them down.  In this case, they often stand like a penguin, (or a bowling pin). In the case of internal laying, the yolks fall to the bottom of the abdomen, instead of passing through the oviduct. Eventually, this gets infected — this is egg yolk peritonitis. 

“The symptom of head-shaking often indicates mites or a neurological disorder. 

Other than that, it’s hard to know. So many symptoms can indicate many issues. If she doesn’t make it, you can submit her to your state veterinary diagnostic lab for necropsy, so you know if it’s something that can affect the other chickens.” 

I hope she improves soon! 

Marissa  

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Thank you for your response. 

My chicken’s belly is really hard, and she doesn’t have regular poop. I gave her molasses mixed with water. I might have to give her Baytril for an upper respiratory infection. I still might soak her bottom half in warm water. 

Jeannie 

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Garlic for Chickens 

Good morning! I have a question for you. I heard that garlic is good for chickens so I extracted the juice and I mixed with water. I also noticed that garlic keeps away flies. My question is: how often can I give garlic to my chickens? 

Thank you for your help! 

Mayra 

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Hi Mayra, 

I’m glad you asked because both garlic and onions contain sulfuric compounds that can cause hemolytic anemia if the chickens eat too much. Garlic contains way less than onions do, so the danger of overdose is way less but still such a concern that you shouldn’t feed garlic to chickens indiscriminately. Yet, fresh, raw, crushed garlic can work as an antimicrobial. So, what do you do? First, get new chickens used to the taste of garlic by applying a little fresh garlic to food and water. Then beyond that, only increase as needed for immune support or when dealing with an issue. Many poultry herbologists recommend one crushed clove per quart of water when dealing with an issue, keeping in mind that those good compounds only last 24-36 hours after the clove is crushed. It can be used topically in much higher quantities, such as for mites. Change out the water after that 24-36 hours pass, and withdraw the garlic after the problem subsides. Also, be sure the garlic is fresh, as preserved garlic has little to no of the same compounds. 

If you are worried that you have given too much garlic to your chickens, just hold back and watch them. Red blood cells constantly replace themselves. Signs of actual toxicity include diarrhea, pale combs, breathing issues, and overall lethargy and lack of appetite. 

Good luck with your chickens! 

Marissa  

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Thank you so much for your answer Marissa! 

The first time I gave my chickens garlic, they drank the water without any fuss. I will try to continue with the garlic water every two weeks. Thanks again! 

Mayra 

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Millie Rooster 

Dear Folks, 

I have a photo to show you. I had to kill this Mille Fleur rooster. It was about a year old. This came on fairly quick. My buddy that raises chickens said it was mites so I dipped their feet in a treatment that you pour on cattle for lice. The rest of them have a little bit or some of their feet. It seems to be helping a little bit. I cut some of the stuff off, had to get it wet first to cut off. Very hard. Could you please send me some information on it? My older chickens don’t have this. I have raised chickens for 56 years. I really like your magazine.  

I have had chickens eat eggs a few times. An older lady told me to put about a tsp of lime to a gallon of water for them and it helped. My pens are all dry. I feed cracked corn to my Milles, and a little laying mash, and a lot of corn in feeder. I put more in and they act like they are starved to death. I wonder why this is.  

Robert Freshour, West Virginia 

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Hi Robert, 

Your rooster’s feet look like they have a bad case of scaly leg mites. The cattle pour-on should work, and you can also slather the chickens’ feet in petroleum jelly to smother the mites if the pour-on gets too expensive. Be sure to stay on top of this, so one doesn’t reinfect another before all the mites are dead. 

Regarding why your chickens “act like they are starved to death:” that is because of the corn. It’s like candy for chickens. Not only does it have very little nutritional value but it’s also a high-calorie snack that chickens love. They will flock to it even if they aren’t hungry or nutritionally deficient. I recommend only giving the corn as a treat, cracked or otherwise, and feeding mostly the laying mash.  

Good luck! 

Marissa 

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Dear Marissa Ames, 

My name is Darryl Curry. I read your article, “Keeping Chickens Comes Full Circle,” in Backyard Poultry, February/March 2019 issue. From my understanding, you’re an expert in raising poultry. I am researching to better prepare for becoming a poultry dealer. I want to learn all I can about raising chickens with the intent of one day starting my own business. 

I have a few questions to ask: During incubation, what incubating humidity levels are too high, and what incubation humidity levels are too low? What are the specific humidity levels during all stages of incubation? What are the specific humidity levels from the last day of incubation through hatching?  

Thank you for your time, I look forward to hearing from you at your earliest convenience. 

Darryl Curry, Georgia 

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Hi Darryl, 

Hatching within an incubator is a great experience, but there are certain humidity levels and temperatures to mind, for sure. Ideally, for chickens and game birds, keeping within a range of 40-50% relative humidity is perfect, increasing to 45-55% if you’re hatching waterfowl. From lockdown to hatch, increase this to 60% relative humidity to avoid “shrink-wrap” where the inner membrane of the egg dries out and the chick cannot escape. A good way to monitor humidity, if your incubator doesn’t do it automatically, is with both a hygrometer and by measuring the expansion of the air cell day by day. If the air cell is too large for that stage of development, increase humidity; if it’s too small, decrease humidity. 

Here are two great stories with important details about hatching eggs, which show air cells and how large they should be during what stages of incubation: backyardpoultry.iamcountryside.com/eggs-meat/candling-eggs-artificial-incubation-hatching/ and backyardpoultry.iamcountryside.com/eggs-meat/incubation-101-hatching-eggs-is-fun-and-easy/ 

Good luck! 

Marissa  

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Rooster Caring for Chicks 

I have an unusual situation on my farm. I have a Silkie rooster who is taking over complete care of six chicks who are now three weeks old. These chicks came from three different mothers and the hens have all retreated to the nest boxes and are remaining broody. He sits on the chicks and he calls them to food and water and he protects them if I get to close. I’m wondering if anyone else has ever heard of this or has a rooster that has acted like this? I took a video of him in action. 

Cindy Pradarelli 

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Hi Cindy, 

Happy Father’s Day to your rooster! This isn’t unheard of, especially among docile and “motherly” breeds like Silkies. Roosters have been known to keep chicks warm and direct them to food in addition to protecting them. I’ve seen some beautiful pictures 20-legged roosters: one amazing dad with nine baby chicks camped out beneath his plumage. 

Thanks! 

Marissa  

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Lavender Chickens 

Hello, 

I have seen several different breeds of lavender chickens. I know they breed true. If different breeds of lavender birds mate, will all the chicks still be lavender? Thanks. 

Alvin Meyer 

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Hi Alvin, 

Yes, they will! When it comes to lavender birds, it’s more about the genes in the coloring and less about the breeds. For a bird to even appear lavender, it has to have two copies of the recessive gene with no dominant black (or another dominant color) to overrule it. So, two lavender parents of different breeds would both give this recessive gene to the chicks and you would have a lavender chicken crossbreed. 

I hope that helps! 

Marissa  

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Thanks. I have Lavender Ameraucanas and Orpingtons which I will now mix together. 

Alvin Meyer 

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Question on Vaccination 

Hi, 

I am hatching and raising a bunch of chicks, keets, and goslings for my friends. With all the recent talk about infectious disease, etc., I was wondering if/when I should vaccinate baby birds. 

In one back issue, your description of Newcastle disease sounded like what some of my chickens may have had in years past … or possibly some other wheezing/breathing issues such as bronchitis? 

I have a separate building for my incubators and a battery brooder, plus brooder panel enclosures with heat plates, with which I have had fairly good success with getting baby birds off to a good start. When they are near six to eight weeks old, I have another building with access to an outside pen, but my free-range adult birds are only separated from the younguns by a fence. 

Since I will be selling the “started” birds at six to eight weeks old to others, I am concerned that my young birds may be exposed to any infectious viruses that might be in my existing flock. I will be adding those not sold to my existing flock, some of which, in the past, developed wheezing or other symptoms, and some might not survive whatever it is they might be exposed to. Therefore, I am wondering if I should vaccinate? 

In past years, I have “rescued” unwanted poultry … so who knows what I may have accidentally exposed to my existing flock. 

The local veterinarians do not do birds; they usually refer any bird issues to me. (One veterinarian is a former 4-H kid that I helped many years ago, who eventually specialized in large animals.) 

Or would I best contact the state veterinarian that may better determine what I should vaccinate for? Also, when is the best age to vaccinate? 

Thank you. 

Cari Frahm, Frahm Poultry, Montana 

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Hi Cari, 

Consulting with your state veterinarian would be my best advice. There is no one-size-fits-all answer for vaccinations. Some must be done within days of hatching, or even while the chick is still in the egg. Some vaccinations are only available for huge commercial flocks. And some diseases are better controlled by simply keeping a closed flock. A specific disease might not even be in your area. For instance, infectious bronchitis has no vaccine and is highly contagious, but it’s also highly survivable. I could write a whole book on vaccines (and they have been written), so I believe your first step should be to identify what diseases are an immediate concern and creating a quarantine and biosecurity plan for any new birds (and humans) entering your flock’s space. 

Good luck! 

Marissa  

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Blowouts (Vent Gleet) 

I bought some hybrid hens at the feed store last fall as chicks. They have a Czech breeding background. I have been losing a lot to what looks like prolapse. Some have messy white feces. Monster eggs are being laid a lot, some with blood on the shells. I am almost 70 years old and have raised chickens for most of my life, with those in the past being heritage breeds and rare breeds. I have never experienced what I have been going through now. I am using the same feed I have been buying: 16% protein. A friend got a batch like mine, and has had a few experiences as I have had, but not as much as I have been experiencing, though. I have a good pen for them. Everything looks okay then four hours later one is dead as a doornail. Just crazy! Any ideas? I am losing some each week it seems. I have even have given them meds for coccidiosis in their water once. Just a mystery! Thanks. 

Alan 

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Hi Alan, 

While the monster eggs tend to be something that happens more often with new layers and usually isn’t a problem, it can be an issue if the hen has something else going on with her cloaca. And, from your symptom descriptions, I suspect you’re dealing with vent gleet (infected cloacitis). The white, pasting feces is a classic sign of gleet, and if the gleet becomes too advanced, there can be swelling of the vent area that looks like prolapse. Other symptoms of advanced gleet include bloody droppings, a foul odor, loss of appetite, straining to defecate, and eventually death. It can be brought on by bacteria or a fungus getting into the cloaca, or by stressful situations which make the bird more susceptible to infection. Supportive care would be to isolate the sick birds and to wash their vents with an iodine-based antiseptic. You can administer oral antibiotics, but that would require a call to the vet first, so you can purchase them. 

Good luck, and I hope this helps! 

Marissa  

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Thanks, Marissa! I started to do some research on my own; what you said confirms what I read. I can’t believe I had this happening to so many hens. Maybe I should reevaluate my pen condition this year. I did not think it was that bad, but who knows. I am moving them to a new place this year. I should keep them high and dry. Plus, I don’t usually have so many hens at once. Just like humans getting viruses in close areas, animals just as bad. Have a good day. Thanks again. 

Alan  

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Chicken Advice 

Hello, 

I was looking for your option on one of my Australorp hens (see pictures). 

I understand you are not necessarily a veterinarian, but was just looking for some advice. Our hen is five years old now and she has been laying soft eggs (sometimes no shell) for a few weeks and has been very lethargic the last few days. Her crop felt water-balloonish two days ago so we thought it could be sour crop. We have her inside now with yogurt and garlic water. She only eats a few pecks at a time. Her stool was green with bright yellow yesterday and today it was all yellow with a clump that was paste-like (see picture … sorry to send you a poop picture!). I was curious your thoughts and any suggestions on things to try. Thank you for your time! 

Sincerely,  

Jen Blindert 

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Hi Jen, 

My first thought is that she has an infection in her vent, like vent gleet or salpingitis. If this infection goes far enough, it causes problems with appetites, energy levels, and odd feces. The best remedy for both of these is antibiotics, for which you would need to have your hen seen by a veterinarian, but a veterinarian may be able to do a test to see if there are any specific bacteria or fungi to treat. You can also wash the vent with an iodine-based solution, but that wouldn’t help an internal infection. 

I hope she feels better soon! 

Marissa  

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Chicken Pecking 

I have a small flock of Rhode Island hens and I am having problems with pecking … to the point of death. 

Judy Bowen 

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Hi Judy, 

Pecking is usually not more than bullying that draws a little blood — except in cases like yours. It can get out of hand and be deadly. Pecking behavior often happens when something in the coop isn’t harmonious for the chicken, and it can be a lack of space, a health issue, the wrong lighting, improper nutrition … or certain breeds are naturally bossier than others. (Rhode Island Reds are one of them.) Often you can mitigate the issue by augmenting their coop and run to give them a dust bath for health, perches and hiding places where they can get away from bullies, and a toy or Flock Block to peck at. When you see a wound, immediately treat it with a wound care product that both stops the bleeding and hides the red color. (Like Blu-Kote.) Plus, I recommend keeping an eye on the flock to see if one chicken is a worse bully than the others. If so, it may be time for her to live in another flock. When bullies suddenly transition to a situation where they aren’t at the top of the pecking order, the bullying behavior often stops. 

Here is a great story that addresses different reasons chickens peck and kill each other: backyardpoultry.iamcountryside.com/feed-health/cannibalism-and-chickens-pecking-each-other/ 

And this one follows animal science studies to discuss a chicken’s five welfare needs and why pecking behavior may begin if one of the needs isn’t met: 

backyardpoultry.iamcountryside.com/chickens-101/chicken-husbandry-five-welfare-needs/ 

I hope this helps and that you don’t have any more losses! 

Marissa  

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Originally published in the August/September 2020 issue of Backyard Poultry and regularly vetted for accuracy.

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