What’s in a Name: Roaster, Broiler or Fryer Chicken
by Everett Lindsey
Roaster, broiler, or fryer chicken? Let’s clear up some confusing names that are given to meat chickens. The USDA created five poultry classes due to modern breeding and feeding changes.
I’ve raised chickens for many years. My initial efforts were geared to finding a sturdy, self-sustaining flock to supply eggs and meat. My emphasis was on eggs. The roosters and old hens were to be processed for meat. Old hens that had become no longer productive of eggs were butchered. We all know these are called stewing hens. These birds have had the time to develop strong bones and muscles and are known as “tough old birds.” They’re more flavorful, but improper cooking leaves you with rubbery and almost impossible meat to chew. One year, the old birds were so tough we gave them to a friend to use as bear bait because they were too tough for us to eat.
Originally, most farms raised a few chickens primarily for the eggs and, of course, the fresh-butchered chicken for consumption. These flocks were “dual purpose” chickens. This included many of the well-known breeds: Plymouth Rocks, Delawares, Buff Orpingtons, Rhode Island Reds, Wyandottes, New Hampshire Reds, and the list goes on. Most home growers picked those that were suited to their climate. These chickens are generally slow growers and aren’t anything like modern meat chicken.
I’d been in pursuit of a better meat chicken when I became aware of Cornish Rock chickens and decided to learn more about them. I’ve since raised them for several years for meat.
- Cornish Rock or Cornish game hen: This is an immature chicken younger than five weeks and weighing less than 2 pounds.
- Broiler/Fryer: A bird less than 10 weeks old, with tender meat, smooth pliable skin, and flexible breastbone.
- Roaster: A bird between 8 to 12 weeks old, with a weigh greater than 5 pounds.
- Capon: A castrated male less than four months old.
- Old hens and roosters.
In my search, I wondered what led to today’s modern meat chicken. It all began in 1946, due to a contest sponsored by The Great Atlantic and Pacific Tea Company (more commonly known as A&P). This was, at one time, the leading grocer in America. (I spent four years of my high school youth employed by this local grocer.) The company paired up with the USDA in “The Chicken of Tomorrow” contest. After WWII, American beef and pork was exported to the war-torn countries of Europe. At home we were experiencing the Baby Boom and there was a huge demand for inexpensive meat.
The contest was created to produce a chicken that would grow bigger and faster. They sought a meat bird with a larger percentage of breast meat, with plump legs and thighs. A prize of $10,000 was offered and the contest was launched both regionally and statewide. Forty entrants were selected, whose poultry were to feed and to be slaughtered at 12 weeks. Two categories of winners were to be selected: one for carcass and the other for feed efficiency and weight. A heritage breed, White Plymouth Rock won for carcass. This was an entry by Henry Soglio from his farm, Arbor Acres. The winner for feed efficiency and weight was a Red Cornish crossed with a New Hampshire Red. This was the entry of the Vantress Hatchery, by two brothers. As time passed, these two winners were crossed, giving us the modern Cornish Rock meat chicken. (National Geographic May 1, 2018).
Like all industries, poultry meat production has undergone consolidation. Arbor Acres became Avigen Broiler Breeders, and Vantress is now Cobb-Vantress. Both supply meat-stock chickens. Cobb-Vantress is now owned by Tyson Food, the world’s second-largest chicken producer. These companies have developed hybrid egg production that is beyond the reach of the home producer. They’ve changed the meat chicken to one seemingly on steroids. They’re not on steroids (the federal government prohibits that), but their growth is phenomenal. Today they claim you can get a 5-pound chicken in 42 days with less than 10 pounds of feed, according to the National Chicken Council.
As the scare about red meat consumption developed, consumption of chicken has soared, surpassing that of both beef and pork. It’s shifted to a highly industrial process of factory farming. The production of meat chickens is now concentrated in 10 poultry producers with, almost half produced by JBS (number 1) and Tyson/Pilgrim Pride (number 2). Today, Americans consume an average of 100 pounds of chicken per person, according to the National Chicken Council. These include chickens pecking in backyards to the now thousands raised in large confinement houses. At six weeks of age these modern hybrids average 6 pounds. In 1940, chickens slaughtered at 12 weeks averaged 3 pounds.
Small backyard chicken owners can now access these chicks and raise their own meat birds. While it’s relatively easy, they do present with some concerns. They grow fast and, subsequently, can have health issues. They can have problems with their legs due to excess weight of their breasts and are prone to sudden heart attacks, if not butchered soon enough. A solution is to limit feeding. Give them what they need once a day and remove the feeders. They average 10 to 15 pounds of feed over 6 to 10 weeks. Measure the feed to fill feeders and allow for consumption over 1 to 2 hours and the remove them.
Ensure they have safe housing, with protection from predators. They’ll need feed, dry bedding, and plenty of water. Avoid overcrowding; they need around 4 square feet to roam. Make sure water is in constant supply, as they drink a lot. These birds do poorly in the heat, and I now only raise them in the cooler weather of the spring.
After they mature, you’ll need to butcher and store them, which requires adequate freezer space. I strongly recommend using shrink-wrap chicken bags. One special problem I had was losing electricity to my freezer. I lost 20 birds in a day, so if you’re freezing many butchered birds, consider a backup generator.
These modern meat chickens would cease to exist if on their own because they’re unable to breed; they’re produced by artificial insemination. The two available strains owned by Aviagen and Tyson are the Ross 308 and the Cobb 500. Each strain has its own distinguishing features. The Cobb has feathers with small flecks of black, and develop massive breast meat. The Ross (often referred to as the Jumbo Cornish Cross) tends to grow more slowly and has a more balanced development. Its meat is more distributed to the breast, thighs, and legs. Check with your local hatchery as to availability and type. I grow the Jumbo Cornish variety.
When you order your chickens, they’ll usually come via the U.S. postal service. They come in a ventilated box, and my hatchery always seems to send one extra for anticipated death loss. I notify my local small-town postmaster of the probable date of arrival, and they’ve been kind enough to call me as soon as the chicks arrive.
It should be noted that these chickens haven’t been genetically modified; they’ve undergone a great deal of selective breeding. This has changed their growth and feed conversion.
Consider growing your own meat birds. It doesn’t take much time, and if you keep them safe, observe their health, and provide food and water, you’ll have many satisfying homegrown meals.
A favorite for us is Dr. Pepper chicken. I set a thawed bird on a can of Dr. Pepper on a Weber grill, layer homegrown garlic powder on the skin, and the resultant chicken is very tasty. Use your favorite barbecue sauce as you like. Give this a try and you’ll love it.
Everett Lindsey lives with his family in southwest Wisconsin’s beautiful, driftless area. He’s been fortunate to have a dairy operation in the past and now a beef enterprise and a large garden. He’s a jack of all trades and master of none. He pursues a simplified, sustainable, self-reliant lifestyle and enjoys writing about this pursuit. Every day is a blessing and adventure.
Originally published in the June/July 2025 issue of Backyard Poultry and regularly vetted for accuracy.
