How to Avoid Chicken Feed Storage Mistakes

Promoted by Healthy Harvest
How to Avoid Chicken Feed Storage Mistakes

Reading Time: 6 minutes

Chicken feed storage is not something that many of us put much thought into. We’re usually more concerned about coop design, predator control, and keeping our birds healthy. As important as these things are, proper chicken feed storage is just as important, and it doesn’t take too much effort to do it right! Unfortunately, if stored incorrectly, your chicken feed can make your birds sick, make them stop laying, or in extreme instances, kill them. You may be feeding chickens table scraps and other treats, but it’s still imperative that you provide your hens and roosters with good, palatable, and well-balanced chicken feed.

Chicken Feed Storage

Livestock feed is a relatively stable product, but there are a few common reasons that feed is lost or spoiled. Rodents, insects, fungi, moisture, and rancidity are the most common reasons that feed is lost on the farm.

Rodent Damage

Chicken feed storage isn’t just about finding a place to park your extra bag of feed. Mice and rats are good at finding your stores, and if your feed is hanging out in the bag you bought it in, then it’s likely that a rodent will chew your bag open. If you have a large rodent population, or if you give them enough time, mice or rats can easily relieve you of lots of feed, which is money down the drain. What’s more, mice and rats carry diseases your birds can catch. If rodents infect your feed supply, you can quickly make your birds ill. Additionally, giving rodents an easy and plentiful food supply makes your life harder when trying to rid your coop of disease-carrying vermin.

Insect Damage

Chickens love to eat bugs, but not all bugs are clean. Insects, just like rodents, can be carriers of disease. If those carriers live in your feed, then you could be feeding your birds diseased feed.

Moths, weevils, and beetles love to eat livestock feed. Just like rodents, if there are enough of them, they can make a serious dent in your feed stores. You want to feed your chickens, not the pests. These unwelcome guests thrive and reproduce the best between 75 and 100 degrees, so summertime is when you can expect to see issues with insects.

Fungal Damage

Proper chicken feed storage is essential, especially if you want to prevent your feed from going moldy. Mold in the feed is not uncommon, and you may even find small chunks of moldy feed in a bagged feed from the feed mill itself. Moldy feed in the milling process is unavoidable since little nooks and crannies of the system collect bits of feed that spoil in the system. Eventually, those bits will detach and wind up in a batch of feed. Small chunks of spoiled feed are nothing to be concerned about, but when your entire feed store is infected with fungi, you have an issue. The fungus that grows in feed can create mycotoxins that can poison your birds and can give your feed an off flavor that your birds will not like. Fungal growth is most likely to occur when the humidity hits 65 percent or higher outside, and 77 degrees or higher.

Feed mills are large, vast systems. Sometimes you’ll find chunks like this in your feed. These chunks are common and are simply remnants that were hidden in the system.


The biggest challenge of chicken feed storage is moisture. Humidity can encourage the growth of fungi, break down pelleted feed into mush and outright spoil your feed. The most common reason that fed gets wet is rain or the natural condensation effect that occurs in storage containers. Many people use barrels or bins to keep their feed safe and dry, but as the heat rises and falls with every day, these barrels collect condensation on the inside walls. This process can be exaggerated if these bins are in direct sunlight.

If you live in a climate that has big swings in temperature, keep your bins out of the sun. If you can’t keep them out of the sun, consider insulating them with reflective insulation to reduce the heat and slow the change of temperature. Insulating bins will help reduce the accumulation of moisture because of inside temperature changes. Additionally, allowing your containers to vent, will let the moisture out. Make sure your ventilation doesn’t allow bugs, rodents or rain into your feed.

Rancid Feed

Mixed feeds don’t last forever. Just like food in your refrigerator can turn rancid, so can your feed. Fats used in the production of chicken feed will eventually oxidize, which turns the feed rancid.

A rancid feed will have an odor about it, and it’s not a pleasant odor. Feed that has turned rancid contains toxins that will stunt a bird’s growth, and the taste will be off-putting. This poor taste will lead to your birds to avoid eating it as well, and if you’re raising meat birds, that will mean you’ll see lower weight gains. Fungi and insect damage hasten this process, which is why proper chicken feed storage is critical.

How Long Does Feed Keep?

When grain is ground at the mill and your chicken feed is mixed together, it’s contaminated with fungi and insect larva. It’s unavoidable just like those errant chunks of moldy feed, just because the feed mill’s system is bound to have some contaminated feed somewhere in the vast production system. It’s an unfortunate, but unavoidable fact of livestock feed.

Most chicken feed is pelleted before it’s bagged, which does a lot of good for the shelf life of your chicken feed. When feed is pelleted, it’s pressed through a blazing hot pellet die. This cooking and the pressing action heats the feed and kills the lion’s share of contaminants in the ration. If properly kept, your pelleted feed should store for a minimum of three months, and if conditions are well-regulated, up to six months.

Steel and plastic barrels are good options for feed storage, but be aware that non-food-grade steel barrels may react with your feed.

Does Feed Type Matter?

All feed should be stored in a cool, dry, and dark place, but some feedstuffs are more prone to spoilage than others. Manufactured and pelleted feed that does not include extra fats, such as molasses, should all keep between the three to six-month window. Your feedstuffs will store longer if given the right environment but will spoil quickly if exposed to moisture, sun, and rodents.

Where to Keep Feed

Formulated feed likes to be parked in a cool, dry place. If you have the luxury of having a feed room to store your feed, lucky you. For those of us who don’t have that luxury, it’s wise to keep your feed in a container that stays out of direct sunlight and is watertight, but not necessarily airtight.

What About Containers?

Drums and trash cans are a popular place to keep feed, especially for chicken feed storage. Be aware that feed can react with metal containers. If using steel, or a galvanized trash can, keep bagged feeds in the bag instead of spilling them into the steel container. Food-safe steel barrels have a non-reactive liner in them, usually made of porcelain or food-safe paint. These liners will protect your feed from reacting with the steel. Plastic or “Polly” barrels are best for avoiding reactivity. However, they don’t resist light as well as metal, and they don’t resist chewing by rodents as well as steel.

Keeping Your Birds Happy

You’ve spent the time to learn how and what to feed chickens, now take it a step further and make sure your feed stays in top form. For those of us who have only a handful of chickens, buying and storing 50 pounds of feed at a time can be a challenge. The bottom line is as long as you keep your feed safe, cool, and dry, you’ll have no issues with spoiled feed, and your chickens will have clean, fresh feed to support their egg laying!

Do you have a preferred type of container where you store your feed? How well does it work for you? Let us know in the comments below!

For an educational .pdf for you to Print, Save, and Share, see our Flock Files on Properly Storing Chicken Feed!

10 thoughts on “How to Avoid Chicken Feed Storage Mistakes”
  1. I have between 25-35 chickens at a time. I keep my feed in their original bag until it is time to open one. All my bags I store in a non working chest freezers, and they are in the barn, so no direct sun or rain. Best solution ever. Get the size you need through ads like on Craig’s List. Most of the time people just want to get rid of a non working freezer, so free works well. I use one of my smaller ones for treats like meal worms and corn or anything else that’s not regular feed.

  2. We use aluminum garbage cans have been a few years I have 15 layers and I’m getting 10-12 eggs daily I give fresh scraps daily salad stuff and egg shells sometimes stale bread my chickens are happy and healthy

  3. I use an aluminum garbage can as well and just dump the feed bags directly into the can. However,
    I‘m fortunate enough to have a woodshop right next to the coop so I store the can inside and its temp controlled and rain tight. I only have 8 birds, but so far this solution is working great. The can can fit 3 50lb bags at a time.

  4. I use galvanized metal cans with lids. I buy 200 pounds biweekly, I put 50 punds in feeders and 150 pounds in a 30 gallon can. I have another for starter feed and a 10 gallon for scratch, sunflower seeds or other bulk treats. I feed 55+ chickens and ducks daily. We shop for manager special priced produce for them as well, especially greens (no iceberg lettuce). We have a second refrigerator for them as well for their perishable food. There’s a watermelon and a cantaloupe waiting for them right now.

    @Rita Miller, great idea on the non-working freezers. My son hauls scrap and gets them at times. Just wish I had extra room for one or two.

  5. Very helpful info we have 200 hens I have been looking at larger feed storage such as metal bins but I do not go through enough feed for a outdoor two ton so I have started using 55 gallon food grade astic drums

  6. With only a few birds, I buy large bags of pellets and crumble, plus scratch grain and sunflower seeds. These are stored in my indoor workshop. I put the originsl bags into galvanized garbage cans with lids and bails. From these, I fill 5 gallon food grade buckets with the screw on lids from Tractor Supply. I keep those in the kitchen for daily use. This has been working out great.

  7. Hi. I have 2 plastic bins/trash cans with twist off/locking lids. I drilled a series of small holes around the bottom about an inch up and another series of holes in the lid. I keep them in the coop where they are out of sunlight and they work perfectly.

    1. I am just starting my research on chickens so am curious- why the holes? Ventilation? Are the holes around the base essentially how the chickens access the food in place of a feeder?

  8. I buy Pelleted laying mash and cracked corn for my little brood and store each in a plastic container with a Gamma screw top lid that was designed to hold a 50 lb bag of dog food. I bought my first one at Costco, then three more at a locally owned discount department store. I have an apple bin tipped on it’s side in the run with the chickens that serves as my “cupboard” for the feed, dry egg cartons, extra scoops and a shelf to set my table scrap bucket on while I feed.

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